July 13
After a long leisurely sleep, we drove into Whitehorse to stock up on food and replace two more RV tires. With a long day of driving ahead of us, we chose different ways to prepare ourselves. Emma's idea of preparation was to rent a bicycle and pedal around Whitehorse for a few hours. My idea of preparation was to drive to the Yukon Art Gallery at the nearby University. We both had a wonderful time.
I was enthralled by the awesome art exhibit by Daphne Mennell. She hiked and captured vividly the Chilkoot Trail experience during her Chilkoot Trail Residency.
Having recently hiked the lower reaches of the Chilkoot Trail, I immediately related to her early works along the trail and wished that Emma and I had gone further.
Diagram depicting the 4000 foot elevation gain along the Chilkoot Trail
From the chart above, you get a sense of the steepness of the climb. During our Chilkoot day trip, Emma and I made it to the second tiny bump on the left. Hats off to Daphne for making it all the way with her art supplies in tow.
The adjacent canvasses really capture the feeling of being in the forest and climbing up this historic trail.
View from the top of the Chilkoot Trail
Emma had an equally enjoyable time peddling her heart out through the byways of Whitehorse. Cheerful and contented, we started our long descent from the Yukon back toward Vancouver.
At Johnson's Crossing we dry camped for the night.
The day started with a morning walk and swim for Sonaa. Her doggy day was not complete unless she got to chase a ball a dozen times in a freezing cold river. Not my idea of a good time but I don't wear a fur overcoat in the summer.
Sonaa enjoyed the swim and I enjoyed watching her enjoy her swim.
We drove to the impressive Teslin Tlingit Heritage Centre on the shores of picturesque Teslin Lake.
The entry walkway had the totems of the five Teslin tribal families: eagle, beaver, wolf, frog and raven.
Teslin Heritage Centre
The displays were impressive as was the film, but the free bannock was the highlight for me.
Time to put the hammer down as our destination today was Watson Lake. We drove for miles along the AlCan Highway through endless stretches of forest. For a change, the highway was fairly smooth and we made good time.
Northern Boreal Forest and Muskeg
Arriving in Watson Lake late in the day, we immediately visited the world famous signpost forest.
It was greatly expanded since our last visit eight years ago.
Signpost Forest at Watson Lake
We camped for the night in downtown Watson Lake and did the short circumnavigation walk around Wye Lake. Our day ended with a walk across the highway to visit the Northern Lights and Space Centre at Watson Lake.
46) Yellow-bellied Sapsucker 47) Gray Jay
July 15
We had not seen enough wildlife on this trip so we got up at 5:00 a.m. and were on the road by 5:30.
Today was our day! Between 5:30 and 8:30 a.m. we saw:
18 Black Bears; More than 100 Wood Buffalo; and one Red Fox
Wood Buffalo - Bull
The male wood buffalos were huge and, when they walk on the road, it is theirs.
One good sized herd was walking casually along Highway 97.
Buffalo Herd
Bull
Cow and Calf
Calf
We spent the entire day driving south through North-Eastern British Columbia. The landscape was beautiful. Approximately two hundred and fifty kms south of Watson Lake, we stopped beside the Trout River and enjoyed a 1.5 kilometre hike.
Overlooking the Trout River were cliffs which were laden with essential minerals. The local Stone Sheep came down from the mountains to lick up these precious nutrients.
Stone Sheep
While the ewes were licking up minerals, three playful lambs were romping about on the meadow above. They appeared so innocent, happy and carefree without a worry in the world.
Stone Sheep - Ewe
Stone Sheep Ram
The landscape around Muncho Lake was breath-taking so we stopped the RV for an impromptu tea break to enjoy the ambience.
Muncho Lake
They seemed quite content to munch on the grass and shrubs along the sides of the highway.
One mother bear was not so sure of our intentions and hustled her cub into the trees.
Junior was supposed to hustle up the tree but stopped after climbing only a few feet. It was clear he did not intend to exert himself unless it was absolutely necessary to shinny to the top of the tree.
We continued south to Stone Mountain Provincial Park and stopped at picturesque Summit Lake. It was only 5:00 p.m. but the setting was so lovely we decided to camp for the night.
July 16
It was a lovely morning when we woke up at our beautiful lakeside campsite. By 7:00 a.m., Emma, Sonaa and I were hiking around Summit Lake then up the trail to Flower Springs Lake. It was an enjoyable hike but long. Emma charged ahead as Sonaa and I photographed and enjoyed the scenery.
Finally, Sonaa called a halt
Sonaa was eleven years old and finally plopped down to let us know that we had hiked far enough. She would not move forward yet bounded ahead as soon as we turned back.
48) Northern Harrier
Least Chipmunk
July 17
We were up and on the road by 5:30 a.m. From Fort Nelson to Fort St. John was one continuous carpet of boreal forest. This flat sea of green was only interrupted by the narrow ribbon of highway that we were on.
We expected to see more wildlife this early in the morning but all we saw in the entire day was one Mule Deer. After 150 kms, Emma got tired and went to sleep in the back of the RV. I carried on driving for another 200 km then stopped at a little roadside rest stop.
While Emma continued to sleep I went on a bird watching tour of the rest stop area. No luck, there was not a bird to be seen in the thick boreal forest.
White-winged Crossbill - female
Returning to our RV, I was surprised to see it surrounded by White-winged Crossbills. Birds are smart. Why hang out in the dense forest when there is sure to be food by the rest stop picnic tables.
49)*White-winged Crossbill - male
50) Pine Siskin 51) White-throated Sparrow
We drove into Fort St. John and straight to Canadian Tire for a new air filter. The filter the clerk gave me did not look right so I asked their mechanic to install it. Sure enough they had given us the wrong filter.
"This was not my first rodeo with parts departments".
Next, the RV was looking pretty grungy so we went to a "do it yourself " car wash. I loved the water pressure hose so Emma and I had some fun with it. Once the RV, Emma and I were nicely soaked and scrubbed, we carried on to Dawson Creek.
Mile Zero of the Alaska Highway at Dawson City
We went on a short perambulation around downtown Dawson Creek then stopped for photos at Mile Zero.
Fifty kms south of Dawson Creek, we stopped for the night at the Swan Lake Campground. It was just what we were looking for; large, secluded, quiet and scenic.
Mountain stream flowing out from the Rocky Mountains
July 18
Up and at 'em by 6:00 a.m. we continued ... oops. We forgot this was a provincial campground and the main gate was closed and locked until 7:00 a.m.. Change of plans! We parked and had a leisurely breakfast until 7:00 a.m. when they let us carry on.
Highway 40 was in rough shape from the very large volume of heavy industrial trucks using this route. We travelled south through the transition terrain between the prairies and the Rock Mountain foothills.
Briefly we were in the golden yellow prairie fields of mustard seed around Grand Prairie. As we drove further south, the Rocky Mountains shifted steadily eastward and we were back in the rolling boreal forest of the foothills.
Getting up early three days in a row was taking its toll. I was tired but there was nowhere to pull over and rest. More big trucks zoomed by as I tried to find a place to get off this ribbon of road through the forest. Finally, I spotted an open patch of gravel beside the road. I pulled over and slept for a few hours.
Refreshed, we carried on to Jasper National Park
Bighorn Sheep
As was often the case when you enter Jasper Park, we were meet near the east entrance by a small herd of Bighorn Sheep.
The weather forecast called for clouds and rain tomorrow, so Emma and I had pushed hard to get to Jasper that day. We wanted to go up the Whistlers Gondola for a panoramic view of the park while the weather was still clear.
Hearty wildflowers, birds and mammals were thriving at the harsh alpine summit.
July 19
Jasper Townsite
We parked in the Whistlers parking area and had supper, then the three of us went up the gondola.
It cost $49 each for Emma and me while Sonaa got a deal for $5.
It was cold at the top of the scenic gondola ride but we came prepared with jackets for us while Sonaa brought her fur coat.
Climbing up to the Whistlers summit
There was a stark beauty to the weathered alpine terrain at the top of Whistlers Mountain and the views were magnificent.
Mount Edith Cavell viewed from Whistlers Mountain
Mountain Aven
52) Horned Lark
15] Hoary Marmot
The whistles of marmots echoed around the summit of the mountain. It was quite spectacular thanks largely to Sonaa "the wolf" who was attracting a great deal of attention from the marmots.
Emma and Jim at the summit of Whistlers Mountain
View of Terminal Mountain from the summit of Whistlers Mountain
Tired and happy, we descended to our RV and drove to the overflow campground at Snaring.
Be careful getting there. You have to cross a wooden bridge to get to the Snaring Overflow Campground and you better drive very slowly over the bridge or risk damage.
As predicted it rained most of the night. The morning broke cloudy and cool but showed signs of improving. Given the grey dawn, we decided to start the morning with a stroll through the Jasper townsite.
Jasper Visitor Centre
Emma with Jasper
As occasionally happens, my muse got feisty when I take too many pictures.
It was time to get back into nature so we drove up to Patricia Lake where Sonaa could have her daily swim. Happy dog! Sonaa was in doggy heaven with the nice day, sandy beach and cold water. We played fetch a stick for half an hour.
Sonaa almost glows when she is happy and it's like being bathed in warm sunshine to experience the happy love energy of a contented golden retriever.
53) Ring-necked duck with 6 ducklings
Refreshed and contented, the three of us went on a three kilometre hike along the trail at the far end of Pyramid Lake. Next we drove back through Jasper then east to Miette Hot Springs where we had a great soak in the hot springs.
53) Ring-necked duck with 6 ducklings
Pyramid Mountain
Refreshed and contented, the three of us went on a three kilometre hike along the trail at the far end of Pyramid Lake. Next we drove back through Jasper then east to Miette Hot Springs where we had a great soak in the hot springs.
Cow Elk
Given the inclement weather forecast, it was time to make tracks toward Vancouver.
On the way west out of Jasper, we encountered several elk and got some good pictures.
Our parting view of Jasper was of a bull elk as he grazed beside the highway.
Elk -fawn
Bull Elk
Our parting view of Jasper was of a bull elk as he grazed beside the highway.
July 20
We awoke at the Mount Robson campground. As predicted it was pouring rain and cool.
There was no view of cloud-shrouded Mount Robson so we drove south all morning. As the day progressed, the weather got steadily better. When we arrived at Clearwater, it was a reasonably bright sunny day.
Helmken Falls
We turned into Wells Gray Provincial Park and drove to Helmken Falls. We have always been impressed by this spectacular waterfall and today was no exception. It was a fitting conclusion to our Alaskan safari adventures.
We have been traveling in our RV for nine years. During that time, we have visited every USA National Park that you can get to by RV.
Total parks visited include:
USA National Park 54
48 national parks in the contiguous USA
3 national parks in Alaska
2 national parks in Hawaii
1 national park in the American Virgin Islands
Canadian National Parks
26 national parks in Canada
We have yet to visit four Canadian National Parks that you can reach by RV.
Two parks are in Nova Scotia and two parks are in Newfoundland.
We will wait for travel restictions to be lifted before we can visit those parks.
All the best, Jim and Emma.
