Grand Tetons June 9 to 12, 2015

June 9

I was up at 6:00 a.m and ready to pack up and get to a campground inside Grand Teton National Park before they fill up. Emma had a rough night's sleep and took a sleeping pill at 4:00 a.m.  With an  effort I was able to get us on the road by 7:00 a.m. but it wasn't easy getting my groggy sidekick rolling.

At 7:55 a.m., we arrived at the Gros Ventre Campground inside Grand Teton National Park. Our neighbouring ground squirrel expressed her disapproval on our arrival. Emma still not fully awake, went back to bed.

[9] Unita Ground Squirrel

Sonaa and I went for an extended walk and birding tour around the campground.

We sauntered by the meadow overlooking the Grand Tetons then walked to the other side of the campground to the banks of the Gros Ventre river.

Sonaa on the banks of the Gros Ventre river

I kept a firm grip on Sonaa to prevent her from leaping into the fast flowing river. At a quieter bend in the river, she got her much anticipated game of swim and fetch.

We heard there were moose in the immediate area and we did see definite signs of their presence here.

By 10:00 a.m., Emma was rounding back into form so we started out exploration of Grand Teton National Park.

The Grand Tetons explode upward from flat mountain meadows. There are no intermediate foothills just prairie then mountains. This rare geological feature is caused by a fault line where the Grand Tetons are slowly rising on one side of the fault and the meadows are falling on the other side.

The effect is spectacular.

I took lots of pictures while Emma and Sonaa went for a walk. At least Emma was intent on a walk while Sonna was more interested in sniffing and rolling about. Emma does out weigh Sonaa but all things considered they are pretty evenly matched and walks need to be negotiated with Sonaa.

Log cabin at Jenny Lake

We dropped by the visitor centre at Moose then drove on to Jenny Lake for a hike along the east side of the lake.

Up close the Grand Tetons just get more majestic

The hike along the shore of Jenny Lake was challenging. Many trees had crashed down over the path and they had not been removed. It took some effort to go over, under and around these obstacles. Sonaa was the clear winner as she bounded under or around the barriers as Emma and I struggled through. 

Cowbird - female

There were a number of birds watching our progress as we hiked through the forest trail.

Mountain Bluebird

Grand Tetons and Jenny Lake

June 10
It was a beautifully crisp morning with clouds drifting up the mountain valley as we headed to the String Lakes just north of Jenny Lake.

Buffalo were browsing in the meadow as we drove along the secondary road through Kelly. This tiny town is inside the national park and it was made famous by Ted Karasote, a naturalist and outdoor adventurist,  when he wrote about his dog Merle. A few years ago, Emma read this book to me as we drove from one national park to another. This true story is about a rescued coon dog and his adventures with his owner in the Grand Tetons. We  wanted to see his cottage in Kelly.  Sure enough, right at the entrance to Kelly was a beautiful little cottage with a huge picture window looking out on the Grand Tetons. As shown in the book, three large flags marked the final resting place of his faithful dog Merle.

  Bison

Some days you just get lucky. Emma and I arrived at  the String Lakes early in the morning. There was no breeze and the glass-clear lake reflected the mountains beautifully. About 20 minutes later the wind picked up, rippled the water, and the mirror effect was gone.

Pine Siskin

A small flock of Pine Siskins were eying us from the pine trees as we started our walk.

 We crossed the Snake River then followed it south to the point where it entered Jenny Lake.

Snake River

We skirted around to the west side of Jenny Lake as we planned to climb up Cascade Canyon into the alpine. The goal for today was to see a Black Rosy Finch. This species is found in upper alpine regions around the Grand Tetons and nowhere else.

Osprey

First, we had to hike along the western side of Jenny Lake.

There was an old forest fire on the western shores of Jenny Lake which left many burned, dead spruce trees standing. With the newly open canopy, the sunlight stimulated new growth on the old forest floor. This new ecosystem is ideal terrain for species like the MacGillivray Warbler.

I have been hoping to see the MacGillivray Warbler for some time and this ideal terrain did not disappoint me. Dozens of warblers were nesting in the new growth rising from the ashes of the old forest fire.

MacGillivray Warbler

A mountain stream rushed down the side of the Grand Tetons as we entered Cascade Canyon. We continued upward toward the alpine and were getting close but ....

Before we reached the alpine and an opportunity to see a Black Rosy Finch we decided that a hasty retreat was more appropriate.

[10] Bear

I do have decent telephoto lenses but when you can't get the whole bear in the picture you are way too close. My general approach with bears is to reach for my bear spray, hold my ground and slowly back away ... After taking a few photos of course.

Emma's approach is somewhat different. She adheres to the school that you don't have to out-run the bear. You only have to out-run one of the people in your party.

The next four pictures demonstrate Emma's sprightly form when she is motivated to quickly ford rushing mountain streams. Such exemplary wilderness ballet should be shared.

We made good time time hustling back down the trail to our RV.

57) Tree Swallow

 Jenny Lake viewed through the  burnt spruce of the north shore

For the rest of the day we restricted ourselves to an auto tour around the park.

June 11

This is usually the first picture we see each morning. We like to think it is a look of love and affection. However, it likely has more to do with her desire for us to get up and feed her breakfast.

Sonaa

Common Raven

As we greeted the day, our curious campground neighbours watched our progress.

 Chipmunk

This Mountain Bluebird seemed quite interested in our morning routine.

Once more we traveled along the prairie beside the majestic Grand Tetons.

A few bison were wandering about as we drove north. 

Bison

Proghorn

There were also a few Pronghorn enjoying the fresh grass in this upper mountain meadow. These antelope migrate 350 miles from their wintering grounds to have their young, and feed in the lush spring meadows of the Tetons. However, their migratory route is threatened by fences and urban development. They cannot winter in the high Teton meadows and if their migratory route is compromised, they will disappear.

The pictures really don't do justice to this majestic panorama. It is undoubtedly one of the most scenically beautiful places in the world.

Summit of the Grand Tetons

We stopped along the banks of the Snake River to watch people rafting along in the fast flowing current.

Several Violet-green Swallows were nest building and had to land near us to pick up twigs and straw. It is unusual to get such close-up photos of this fast flying bird.

 Violet -green Swallow

It's easy to tell these birds apart from Tree Swallows when they are this co-operative.

Violet-green Swallow

 Green-tailed Towhee

Broad-tailed Hummingbird

 Warbling Vireo

We decided to go on one more hike in Grand Tetons National Park.

Emma beside the String Lakes

As usual Emma set off at a brisk pace and was soon well in the lead. This was fine by me as it would give me a head start if she came charging back down the trail.

It's not that Emma hikes significantly faster than me, it's more the fact that I am easily distracted by birds such as this Western Tanager.

  Western Tanager

 

We crossed the Snake River north of the String Lakes.

 Yellow Warbler

 

At the end of our hike, Emma found some relief from the heat by wading in this cold mountain stream.

Late afternoon in Grand Tetons National Park

 June 12

Today we had to leave this magical National Park and head north. It was another beautiful morning as we headed out.

Grand Tetons

 Western Meadowlark

Jim beside the Grand Tetons

 Mule Deer

We followed the upper reaches of the Snake River toward the continental divide. It has been fun to follow this serpentine river for the past 1,000 miles.

A meadow in John D. Rockefeller Jr. National Parkway

The land connecting Grand Teton National Park and Yellowstone National Park was once a vast ranch owned by the Rockefellers. In a magnanimous philanthropic gesture, they donated the land to the National Park Service.

 Headwaters of the Snake River as it reaches the continental divide beside Yellowstone National Park.