Giant Sequoia National Park - June 22 to 23

June 22
Today, we headed into the Sierra Nevada and followed the Kaweah River up to Giant Sequoia National Park

We arived at the Ash Mountain entrance on the southeast side of Giant Sequoia National Park and were surprised to find out that RVs over 22 feet were discouraged from using this entrance. Apparently, the switchback road ahead became too narrow and windy for RVs.

Kaweah River

We were allowed to go a few miles up the road to the Foothills Visitor Center then a few miles further to Potwisha Campground.

Middle Fork of the Kaweah River

We parked by the campground and did a short hike along the South Fork of the Kaweah River.

Walking Bridge over the Middle Fork of the Kaweah River

A walking bridge took us to the south side of river and we continued along the trail. It was a very pleasant walk through the oak tree forest which grew beside this refreshing mountain stream.

As usual Emma set a brisk pace as I sauntered along behind snapping photos. 

 
Too soon we had to backtrack over the bridge as we had a busy day ahead of us.

Emma on the Walking Bridge

As we couldn't drive further into the park from this entrance we had to reverse course, drive well out of the park then take a small side road that would swing us over to the north entrance. Seemed simple enough on the map and should take us about an hour.

What were we thinking? Maybe on the I-5 it would have take an hour but in the Sierra Nevada it was more like four hours. Highway 245 was the road that took us north to the other Giant Sequoia park entrance. Calling this goat trail a highway was a serious misnomer. It was the windiest paved road we have ever been on. We have been on scarier roads but none matched this one for constant hairpin turns. Frequently, we had to take them at 5 miles an hour and use both sides of the road. Even the dog was getting car sick when we finally made it to the Generals Highway and re-entered the park.  We motored straight to Sunset Campground to recover.

June 23

67) Olive-sided Flycatcher

The day started cool and clear, much as you would expect at 6,000 feet. Sunset Campground was actually part of Kings Canyon National Park  but today we were headed through Sequoia National Forest and deep into Sequoia National Park. The Generals Highway took us there and it was another scenic road through towering pine forests.

The view out toward California's Central Valley was significantly washed out by smog and drifting smoke from forest fires.

After a leisurely two hour drive, we arrived at the Giant Sequoia grove that included the General Sherman tree.

The trail to the General Sherman tree was a gently descending half mile paved trail through a towering grove of Giant Sequoias.

Despite the relatively short distance Emma always liked to stretch out her calves, quads and hamstrings before any hike.

The Giant Sequoias really stood out from the adjacent pine trees. This is saying something because the Ponderosa, Jefferson and Sugar Pines were huge trees in their own rights but were dwarfed by the Sequoias.

The bases of the Giant Sequoias were massive compared to the pines and their size was highlighted by their rich red colour.

When you look up to the tree tops you have to look way up. You can get a sore neck looking up while walking through the grove and trying to take in the grandeur of the moment.

Most of the Giant Sequoias and many of the pine trees show signs of earlier forest fire damage. Typical forest fires are not a bad thing for the Sequoias. Their thick bark is reasonably fire resistant and they survive while the surrounding shrubs and small trees are burnt. The resulting ash acts as fertilizer for the surviving trees.

Emma posing by the base of the General Sherman Tree

The General Sherman tree is, by volume, the largest living organism on earth. It is 275 ft (83 m,) tall and weighs almost 2,000 tons. Its is estimated to be about 2,500 year old.

Walking through a Giant Sequoia grove is unique and memorable. These trees are huge, old and inspire feelings of tranquility. There are only 75 Giant Sequoia groves in the world as the growth requirements are very specific. They need moist well-drained soil on the mid-level, western slopes of the Sierra Nevada.

Returning to our RV we drove further into the park to arrive at the Giant Forest Museum.

As we entered the parking area there were some car spaces available but only one designated RV spot left. A small car slide in front of us and into the last RV spot. Emma hopped out of the RV in a flash. She considered it her civic duty to share her perspective on appropriate behavior in a civil society. A dynamic oral exchange ensued. Emma was clearly out pointing the couple with the veracity of her argument and a commendable grasp of the English language. However, having been there myself on occasion, I did have some empathy for the poor miscreants. To their credit, they put up a spirited rear-guard action and, as they retreated, they demonstrated an impressive command of pithy Anglo-Saxon phrases. Sad to say, the final crescendo of this memorable repartee was interrupted as another RV spot opened up. 

The museum was interesting and provided thought-provoking facts and insights into the history and life cycle of Giant Sequoia groves. However, it was somewhat anticlimactic after the theatrics in the parking lot.

A park ranger suggested we take the 1.5 mile hike to Moro Rock. It was a great suggestion as there were few people on the trail and we hiked through magnificent forests with colourful meadows of wildflowers.

Skunky Monkeyflower (Mimulus nanus)

Skunky Monkeyflower - detail

I really enjoyed photographing beautiful flowers and landscape. Whenever possible I liked to add my muse Emma into the equation.

Emma on a water break

Emma wading through an open meadow

Under the tall trees, the forest floor was dark and open with little ground vegetation. Walking through the frequent meadows was a different experience as the ground cover flourished and occasionally surrounded us.
 

Nicely tired from our hike we arrived at Moro Rock. That was when we realized that Moro Rock was large granite dome with a great panoramic view of the surrounding mountains. The only catch was that it was practically straight up for several hundred feet.

The path up Moro Rock was a well designed stairway with more than 350 steps carved out of the cliff face. Sounded easy when we started at the bottom but half way up we were really huffing and puffing.

The views on the way up did not disappoint and I took every opportunity to rest and take a few pictures.

Moro Rock looking east

Looking east the Sierra Nevada peaks rose clear and serene above the horizon.

Moro Rock looking west

As we ascended, the stairway circled around to the west side of the rock. From this side, we looked toward the California Central Valley in the west. This view was much smoggier due to pollution combined with a nearby prescribed low-intensity forest fire.
New research showed that regular small forest fires prevent fuel build-up on the forest floor. Rather than having occasional massive fires, the Forest Rangers set regular small controlled burns similar to what would happen naturally in the past.
Good idea, but too bad the prescribed burn wasn't next week then my westward looking panorama shots would not have been affected. 

Still climbing upward on Moro Rock

Just when we thought we were getting close we looked up and realize that we still have a fair bit more to go.

Nearing the summit of Moro Rock

Finally we made it to the top

Emma on top of Moro Rock

Looking east toward the Sierra Nevada - Great Western Divide

We loved the panoramic view from atop Moro Rock. It incorporated the Great Western Divide of the Sierra Nevada to the east and the hazy valleys leading west into the California Central Valley.

Westward looking toward the California Central Valley

Big lens used to show detail of the distant mountains

Too soon we were headed back down Moro Rock. Going down was a breeze.

A California Ground Squirrel greeted us as we completed our descent.

California Ground Squirrel

We were quite happy to sit quietly in the shade and wait for the shuttle bus to take us back to our RV.
We love the RV. Upon arriving, we had a snack and shower followed by a late afternoon nap.

Nicely recuperated, we enjoyed a slow drive back to our Sunset Campground.