Bananaquit
It was another beautiful morning in paradise. The Bananaquits were busily sucking back their breakfast as were we. Today we headed to Salt Water Bay at the south end of St. John Island.
The St. John roads were becoming more like a thrill ride and less of a life threatening experience as we got more familiar with our environment. In 45 minutes, we arrived at the trail entrance leading to Salt Water Pond. A short hike got us to the beautiful setting of Salt Water Bay.
Salt Pond Beach
Due to its isolated location, this beach is less popular but just as beautiful as the more famous beaches.
Salt Pond Beach
This location has sea grass and is known for attracting sea turtles. We donned our snorkel gear and went looking for sea life.
Sure enough Emma spotted a couple of sea turtles off in the distance and started finning hard to catch up. We hold hands while we snorkel so I had to kick hard to do my part.
Salt Pond Beach
Suddenly, a large fish loomed out of the gloom. It was directly in front of me and a few feet below. It was floating motionless in the water and I was curious to see what it was. However, my curiosity only lasted a moment. As we finned closer I realized that the fish was longer than me.
Curiosity was immediately replaced by a desire to be anywhere else. I stopped finning and tried to use my free hand to propel myself sideways. Oblivious to the monster fish looming out of the depths, Emma was still happily finning after the distant sea turtles and dragging me along in the process.
We were close now. I'm much better at identifying birds than fish but this one was easy. What is six-feet long with a large half-open mouth and rows of long needle-sharp teeth? Barracuda!
I know barracuda don't usually attack people but this barracuda was not moving and I was being dragged right into its mouth. Emma was on a mission to catch up to the distant sea turtles and was oblivious to the monster fish right in front of us.
I could have broken free from her sturdy grasp but that would have led to some kicking and thrashing feet away from the mouth of the Barracuda. Instead I went limp, and played possum.
Like a big lure Emma dragged me over-top of the monster fish. For a moment, I was eye-ball to eye-ball with the cold stare of a predator. There was no emotion in that eye just cold calculation.
As I cleared the danger, I enthusiastically joined Emma finning after the sea turtles.
Salt Pond Bay
The rest of the dive was fun but somewhat anticlimactic. On reaching the beach Emma enthused about all the sea turtles we saw. "What about that big fish you dragged me over", said I. "What fish?" said Emma.
Hmmm.... I may be carrying too much life insurance.
Sailboats in Salt Pond Bay
We had a short rest on the beautiful white sand beach before walking around the bay and hiking along the Ram Head trail.
Jolly Roger
Salt Pond Bay
The Ram Head trail was one of the most scenic hikes we have ever been on. It started at Salt Pond Beach and followed the shoreline before ascending to Ram Head Point.
Salt Pond Bay
Fossilized Coral
Fossilized coral was interspersed with other rocks as we walked along the shoreline.
Ram Head Trail
Salt Pond Bay from Ram Head Trail
As we gained some altitude the views down into Salt Water Bay were amazing.
Salt Pond Bay
Ram Head Trail
This section of St. John Island got much less rain than other parts of the island and the lack of precipitation was reflected in the large variety of cacti that were represented in the flora.
Ram Head Trail
Cacti on Ram Head Trail
Cactus- detail
Emma loved to hike and was very much in her element. I was happy we brought lots of water.
Emma on Ram Head Trail
Cacti on Ram Head Trail
Turks Head Cacti by Ram Head Trail
Half way to Ram Head Peak we traversed a pebble beach which stood in sharp contrast to the many fine white sand beaches of St. John Island.
Pebble Beach on Ram Head Trail
Ram Head Peak
Ram Head Trail
It was a sunny 87 degrees with little shade. Fortunately, there was a strong steady breeze over this headland which kept us cool.
Cactus
Ram Heads Trail
Agave
Salt Pond Bay
As we approached Ram Head Peak we were able to look down on both sides. On one side was Salt Water Bay and on the other side was Eagle Shoal and Drunk Bay.
Salt Water Bay on the left and Drunk Bay on the right
Salt Pond Bay
Emma on Ram Head Peak
When we arrived on top of Ram Head we had a nice rest. Emma and I took our time here because you have a spectacular 360 panoramic view
Ocean view from Ram Head
Ram Head Peak
Even overhead was interesting as a female Magnificent Frigatebird soared motionless. The warm steady breeze allowed her to remain fixed directly over the headland.
15) Magnificent Frigatebird
View Down from Ram Head
View North East from Ram Head
View South from Ram Head
View North West from Ram Head
View North from Ram Head
Eventually, it was time to leave this special place and find our way back down the Ram Head Trail
Return along the Ram Head Trail
Cacti by the Ram Head Trail
Gulf Fritillary
Beach Maho
In the late afternoon, we drove back to Tree Tops B&B and had a reinvigorating outdoor shower. Refreshed, we drove into Cruz Bay to visit Mongoose Junction and some of the local shops. After dark we made our way back to our lodgings. Traversing the St John roads at night added a new dimension to our driving experience.
16) Kestrel
January 3
We had another great morning breakfast and chat with Hank and Karen. It was hard to leave this wonderful little piece of paradise.
Leaving Cruz Bay in St. John
The wild ride down to Cruz Bay was beginning to feel normal. We arrived at the car ferry just in time and were the last car to drive onto the ferry.
It was such a nice day we climbed up to the bridge of the ferry and had the deck to ourselves as we rode back to St. Thomas.
Redhook Point, St. Thomas
Arriving at Red Hook in St. Thomas
We were looking for one final beach experience so we drove back to Charlotte Amalie then over near the airport.
Lindbergh Beach
Just metres off the airport road beautiful Lindberg beach was hidden by a row of trees.
Emma and I had a great time swimming about in the bay and thoroughly enjoying our last day in the Virgin Islands.
17) Laughing Gull
For our last night, we stayed in the same hotel where we started our visit. Finding it this time was much easier.
Government House - Charlotte Amalie
In the last afternoon, we headed out to find the famous 99 steps and Black Beard's Castle. This was going to be easy as it was right next door to our hotel.Unfortunately, Emma and I missed the turn and went sailing past our destination. In no time, we were completely lost and wandering the back alleys of Charlotte Amalie again. At least this time we didn't have the car and were more maneuverable as we slid through the alleyways.
Finally, a helpful suggestion got us back on track. When we finally returned to our hotel we realized the famous 99 steps were within 50 meters of our hotel entrance.
We quickly scrambled up the steps and over to Blackbeard's Castle. From the castle, you have a commanding view of Charlotte Amalie harbor.
Charlotte Amalie Harbor
We finished our vacation where we started it, at the Tavern Restaurant on the waterfront.
The rum punches were great.
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