Tuesday, 19 June 2018

Kluane National Park - June 16 - 18

June 16

To start the day, I drove Emma and Sonaa a mile or two out of town and dropped them off. They needed  their exercise and a three kilometre walk back into Whitehorse seemed about right for them. While they hiked back I drove to Canadian Tire for two cans of bear spray. We met up a couple of hours later at the Kwanlin Dun Cultural Center.

Whitehorse River


Yukon Art Centre

The Yukon Art Centre was closed when we arrived so we enjoyed a short walk through the Sculpture Garden. The sculptures by Douglas Smarch of the Tlingit Nation were particularly inspiring. Entitled "Into the Forest" his sculptures of Water, Earth and Air were thought provoking.

Water

"Into The Forest" was his reminder that we all lived and grew from nature, and as we grew, found ourselves further inspired by it.

Earth


Air

Before noon, we were  headed west from Whitehorse along the Alaska Highway. Extensive sections of this highway had been resurfaced with gravel rather than being repaved. In theory, the highway was under repair but in reality nothing was happening. The Alaska Highway had become one long bumpy potholed gravel road. For long sections of the highway, we were forced to bump along at 15 kilometres an hour to avoid shaking the RV apart..

Du Ka Cultural Centre at Haines Junction

When we arrived at Haines Junction we immediately stopped at the new Information Complex to relax after the rattling ride from Whitehorse. This impressive complex housed: Da Ku Cultural Centre, Yukon Tourist Information and Parks Canada.

Du Ka Cultural Centre
It appeared that each of the Aboriginal Nations in the Yukon had received government money to build cultural centres that explained and shared the history and art of their societies. The Du Ka Cultural Centre was a good example of this initiative and we spent a pleasant hour looking at the displays.

Du Ka Cultural Centre -interior

We watched the film about Kluane National Park and enjoyed the awesome view of the nearby cloud shrouded mountains.

Haines Junction

We stopped briefly at the main Haines Junction intersection to admire the Kluane Range of the Saint Elais Mountains.

Haines Junction - sculpture

A colony of Artic Ground Squirrels watched us closely as we admired the vista.


Arctic Ground Squirrel


Kluane National Park
As the afternoon shifted into evening we drove south along Highway 3 to the rustic campground at Kathleen Lake.

Kathleen Lake Area

A short one kilometre trail through a poplar strewn forest led to Kathleen Lake.

Path to Kathleen Lake
Given the area, it was time to strap bear spray into my fast access holster during the remainder of our hikes in the Yukon and Alaska. With practice, I could draw and fire within 3 seconds.

Trembling Aspen Grove

The view across Kathleen Lake to King's Throne Peak was impressive even with the low-lying clouds.

Kathleen Lake

June 17
We started the day with a family walk along the shore of Kathleen Lake. Sonaa was good to go and enjoyed her early morning swim.

Emma and Sonaa at Kathleen Lake


Kathleen Lake and King's Throne Peak


St. Elias Mountain Range

The drive northwest to Thechal Dhal Visitor Centre paralleled the scenic Saint Elias Mountain Range.
Kluane National Park was massive but you don't begin to see the huge glaciers behind the imposing St. Elias Range.


Alaska Highway Approaching Kluane Lake


Kluane Lake and St. Elias Mountain Range

When we arrived at Kluane Lake we knew that the park visitor centre was just around the bend.

Kluane Lake


Kluane Lake and Sheep Mountain


Kluane Lake Looking Up A'ay Chu Valley


A'ay Chu Valley

At the head of the A'ay Chu Valley, the receding Kaskawulch Glacier marked the limit of the massive Kluane Icefield.


Thechal Dhal Visitor Centre by Sheep Mountain

We stopped for lunch at the visitor centre and I broke out "Long Tom" (600 mm lens) to see where the Dall Sheep were foraging on nearby Sheep Mountain.



A'ay Chu Valley and Sheep Mountain


Sheep Mountain

There were a few isolated groups of Dall Sheep near the top of the mountain.

Dall Sheep

Following the park ranger's advise we drove 4 kms up a gravel road to the Sheep Creek Trailhead.

Sheep Creek Trail


Emma on Sheep Creek Trail

The trail started flat enough then quickly became a steady up hill hike along the mountainside.

Bluebells


Sheep Creek Trail

Near the top of the trail Emma spotted a pair of Dark-eyed Junco making a racket. This was atypical behaviour during the nesting season as song birds try not to attract attention.

Dark-eyed Junco

While looking up at the adult birds I almost stepped on a baby bird sitting on the path. I was perplexed as it was much too young to be out of its nest.

Immature Dark-eyed Junco

Next, I saw a squirrel with the young chick's sibling. This explained the drama we saw unfolding and why the surviving chick chose a premature exit from its nest.

Nature in the Raw

It was difficult for Emma to see Darwin's primary evolutionary premise, "survival of the fittest", played out before her in such a primal way.

Kluane Lake

Tired after our strenuous hike, we drove west to the nearby Condon Campground then had a restful afternoon nap and quiet evening. To reduce the number of blood-filled mosquitoes we killed each morning, we spent part of the evening finding and filling a number of small entry points into the RV.


Alaska Highway and St. Elias Range

June 18

Sonaa had her morning walk and swim before we drove northwest toward Burwash.

Tufted Fleabane

It was a pleasant scenic drive with Kluane Lake on our right and the Elias Mountain Range on our left.


Kluane Lake


Kluane Museum of History

The Kluane Museum was a cosy wooden structure with a few interesting nature exhibits.

Dall Sheep

Before arriving at the Alaskan border we stopped for lunch at Pickhandle Lake.


Pickhandle Lake

A lone Herring Gull greeted us as we walked onto the dock that overlooked the lake.

Herring Gull


Pickhandle Lake

The resident Trumpeter Swans were curious about our arrival. On spotting us, they slowly swam the length of the lake to get a closer look. I wish all birds were as cooperative as this pair.


Trumpeter Swan

Back in our RV we continued through the Yukon toward the nearby Alaskan border.


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