This year we decided to change up our travel plans and go for a short winter trip to Hawaii. We have seen 36 of the 58 American National Parks. Haleakala National Park in Maui will be number 37 for us.
Despite a late arrival at the airport, we sailed through check-in, security and customs to catch out 6-hour Air Canada flight to Maui. Mild turbulence in the mid Pacific was the most memorable part of the flight.
Hawaii was warm and humid when we arrived at 11:00 p.m. We were clearly over-dressed in our long sleeve shirts. Fortunately, the car rental negotiations went smoothly and we were sequestered in our Maui Seaside Hotel in Kahalui by midnight.
January 30
On this warm humid day, the first birds to greet us in the morning were the ubiquitus Zebra Doves and Common Mynas.
Zebra Dove
Common Myna
January 30Our first stop of the day was the Kanaha Pond State Wildlife Sanctuary. It is primarily for the birds and had only a short walk to a viewing area for the people. There were many 4) Black-necked Stilts foraging in the marsh along with some 8) *Pacific Golden Plovers.
Kanaha Pond State Wildlife Sanctuary
Black-necked Stilts
After a short visit, we carried on along the Mokulele Highway to the Kealia Ponds National Wildlife Refuge.
This location was a much larger and accessible site with walking paths along dikes that overlooked several ponds. We saw a number of interesting birds including:
11) *Hawaiian Coot
12) *Koloa or Hawaiian Duck
15) White-faced Ibis
After an extensive hike along the muddy dikes, it was mid afternoon and time to find the Man Kai Maui resort where we would be staying. A quick 20 minute drive found us at the Kihei waterfront booking into our room.
The room we had reserved was tiny with a good view of the parking lot. Definitely not what we had in mind for our Hawaiian visit. A pleasant chat with the hotel clerk and a $100 a night upgrade got us transferred into a terrific ocean view suite. The room was three times larger than the other suite and had an awesome view.
Emma was much happier and quickly settled down on the patio to enjoy the vista.
We finished the day with a swim in the ocean in front of our resort. The waves were quite small by Hawaiian standards but still managed to knock Emma over a couple of times. Sputtering and smiling we wandered back to our room for the evening.
January 31
The ocean waves crashed gently onto the shore all night as we slept with the balcony door open. After a leisurely balcony breakfast we headed up to Haleakala National Park.This involved a 90 minute drive from sea level to 10,000 feet at the top of the mountain.
The sugar cane fields of the central valley were soon replaced by the forested mountain slopes. Right at the base of the mountain two skateboarding dudes were hitching a ride up the mountain. This was too cool to miss so we had to pick up these iconic surfer dudes.
Sure enough they lived up to their billing. These twenty-something bleached adonises were going up to the top so they could skateboard back down the switchbacked serpentine mountain road. In a language peppered with "sick" and "gnarly" adjectives they described their adrenaline-fueled surfing, skateboarding and hang-gliding lifestyle. As one dude was enthusing at the prospects of hitting 50 or 60 mph on his skateboard ride back down, Emma interjected to insist that our back seat passengers put on their seat belts.
Both of our passengers were incredulous but dutifully buckled up. Emma in "safety nanny" mode is not to be trifled with. I'm usually the recipient of Emma's safety epistles so it was nice to have some company. I silently chuckled the rest of the way up the mountain.
View from the slopes of Haleakala Volcano
Near the mountain top we entered Haleakala National Park and our surfer dudes departed for their kamakazi skateboard ride back down. Emma and I contined to the summit.
Drifting clouds obscured parts of the barren landscape as we approached the summit.
Summit of Haleakala Volcano
Emma at Pu'u'ula'ula Summit (10,032 ft)
From the visitor center, we decided to take the Shifting Sands trail down into the Haleakala depression.
Emma hiking the Shifting Sands Trail
The trail led down into the Haleakala Depression. This scooped out terrain is 11 kilometres across by three kilometres wide and pock-marked with more than a dozen small craters.
I was captivated by the austere landscape of the barren terrain and stopped to take several picutres. Emma as usual was all about the aerobic component of our hike and quickly strode into the distance.
Emma striding down the Shifting Sands Trail
When lunch time approached Emma eased up so we could have our snack in the tranquil basin of the depression.
The climb back out of the depression was another exercise in aerobic fitness. Emma was up to the challenge and powered upward at a steady trot.
Emma ascending out of the Shifting Sands Trail
As we left the summit we stopped at the Kalahaku Overlook for one last look at the cloud-shrouded depression. The endangered Hawaiian Petrels dig nesting burrows around the summit of Haleakala but we were not lucky enough to see one on this visit.
Fortunately, as we descended the mountain we did see two endangered Hawaiian Geese, or Nene, as they foraged by the side of the road.
20) Nene
Just before reaching the park entrance we turned off to Hosmer Grove to take the short birding walk beside the campground. A Pacific Golden Plover greeted us by the parking lot while along the bird path we saw an 18) Apapane and two 20) I'iwi.
Pacific Golden Plover
Our ride down the side of the mountain was exciting as we wound around dozens of hairpin tours and quickly switchbacked down the mountain. Exciting as it was I can only wonder and marvel at the adrenaline rush our longboard hitchhikers must have experienced as they zoomed down the mountain.
Back at our hotel balcony, we kicked back, chillaxed and enjoyed the setting sun as it settled into the Pacific.
February 1
We had a leisurely morning breakfast on the balcony of our way cool Maui hotel suite. Through the waving palm trees we watched the waves roll up on the beach. In the late morning, we drove to the boardwalk at the Kealia Bird Sanctuary and had a misty walk through the wetlands.
Our whale watching cruise left from the Ma'Alaea Harbour at 1:00 p.m. The weather cleared as we pulled out of the harbour and cruised out into Ma'Alaea Bay.
Nice harbour town as even the pirates were friendly
We sailed parallel to the coast heading toward Lahaina. Along the way we saw several Humpback Whales swimming just offshore. Many of the the whales were cows with new born calves in tow.
Humpback Whale
The Humpbacks travel from their feeding grounds in Alaska to the safer waters around the Hawaiian Islands so they can give birth to their calves in peace. There is very little food for the whales around the Hawaiian Islands but, on the plus side, they leave the Killer Whales behind in Alaska. Once the calves are born and grow a bit then the starving cows take them back to Alaska to feed. Hopefully, the calves have developed enough to have a decent chance against the waiting Killer Whales.
Cow with Calf beside her
When you see the whale's tail you know they are going deep and you won't see them for a while.
Emma was having a grand time as she gets far more excited by mammals than by birds.
After whale watching we drove up the coast to Lahaina. This town was the historic Capital of Hawaii before Honolulu. In the 19th century, Lahaina was the centre of the global whaling industry.
Walking the main street was fun. Every few minutes the surrounding pubs would explode as the patrons were watching the Seattle versus New England Super Bowl. It's tough being such a big sports fan that my day is ruined if my team loses. It's less painful not to watch. However, with my handy binoculars I did see the final play of the game on a TV situated inside a balcony window. Yay, New England won. Darn, I wish I had watched the game.
As usual Emma was completely oblivious to this historic sporting occasion. Watching sports has as much appeal to Emma as watching paint dry.
The major attraction of the town was the massive Banyon Tree. Each major branch had a trunk going down to the ground. It was just one tree but there were so many branches and trunks going down to the ground that it seemed like a small forest.
Spotted Dove
Brown Anole
Brown Anole
After a full day of exploring we settled back on our balcony to watch the sunset. Hawaiin sunsets are amazing.
The adventure for today was a boat cruise out to Molokini Crater so we could go skin-diving. The waters around this island crater are world famous for their clarity. The down side was that we had to get up at 5:00 a.m. to catch our 6:45 boat cruise. Yikes, our alarm didn't go off. Emma awoke at 6:05 a.m. so we bolted out of bed, showered and dove into the car by 6:20. The drive was only 30 minutes to Ma'alaea Harbour but in the darkness, we missed a turn. We were driving back into Kahului before we realized our mistake. Burning a u-turn we powered back to our destination, screeched to a halt and sprinted down the pier. The boat crew was bending over rolling up the gang plank as we leapt past them to board.
Heaving mightily from our last minute sprint we flopped down beside our startled shipmates.
A pleasant 45-minute boat ride out to the crater gave us time to recover. Along the way we passed a few Humpback Whales lounging about. When the ship anchored beside the crater we were ready to gear up for our plunge into the crystal clear waters.
The dive was great: the water was crystal clear with outstanding views of the diverse coral and aquatic life.
Emma had a blast as we held hands and I maneuvered her about. The viewing was best right up against the cliff face but I had to kick hard on occasion so the waves didn't dash us against the rocks. Good fun.
We didn't see any sea birds around the island. On inquiring, I was surprised to find out that there are almost no gulls around the Hawaiian islands. As gulls are primarily scavengers they require shallow estuaries and shallow inland waters to find sufficient food. Tropical islands are mostly mountaintops surrounded by ocean. They have no coastal shelf and therefore do not provide the habitat that gulls prefer.
On the way back from the Molokini Crater we did a second dive beside the Maui coast. This area is well know as a habitat for Green Turtles. Sure enough, as we snorkeled about we were lucky enough to see one swim by.
Our snorkle diving ended at noon so we continued to explore Maui by driving up to Loa Valley State Park.
Lao Valley
Lao Needle
Lao Stream
Emma hiking in the Lao Valley
The hiking in the park was quite limited but the friendly entrance attendant identified a small side path that would give Emma and I the hiking adventure we were looking for.
Bamboo Forest
The day was still young when we decided to drive up the Kahalui highway to the west
end of the island.
We progressed a fair way up this scenic winding highway until we reached these three signs which stated: Narrow Winding Road, Falling Rocks and No Shoulder.
We had enough adventures for one day and retraced our path back to Waihelu Beach for a quiet stroll along the sand.
Emma on Waihelu Beach
Emma wanted to take my picture by the ocean but by the time she was ready to click the picture waves were rolling up the beach and I had to move.
Red-crested Cardinal
We were back on our balcony before dusk so we could experience another glorious sunset.
February 3
Driving the Road to Hana was the focus of the day. Our first stop was Ho'okipa Bay to see the surfers challenging the big waves.
Emma on the bluff overlooking Ho'okipa Bay
We started up the Hanna highway and stopped at a wayside farm to take a 1 1/2 mile hike through their arboretum.
Bamboo
Emma was wading in a mountain stream to cool off. I asked her to step back a bit to help with the picture composition. Oops. Emma slipped and disappeared underwater. No problem. I took this picture as she popped back up.
Finishing the hike we had a very refreshing stop at a roadside concession stand. Wielding a large machete the proprietor swiped off the top of a coconut and put two straws in it. Freshh coconut milk is delicious.
The Road to Hanna is like no other road. It is only 52 miles long but takes 3 hours to complete.The pavement hugs the serpentine coast line for miles. The hairpin turns are made more interesting by the 42 narrow one lane bridges which add a real adrenaline rush if another car shows up going the other way.
Hana Highway
Banyan Tree near the Kipalulu Visitor Centre
Ancient Lava Flow near the Pools of Ohe'o
Pools of Ohe'o
It took so long to drive the Hana Highway that we arrived at the Pools of Oheo late in the afternoon. We had time for a short hike to the pools and up the Palikea Gorge. Along the way we saw a flock of 23) Melodious Thrushes.
Pools of Ohe'o
Palikea Gorge
It was dark as we took the return drive along the Hana Highway. That ride was out of this world. The hairpin turns were just as bad but now it was dark and I couldn't see the edge of the road. Fortunately, Emma and I are a well-oiled driving unit. Emma looked ahead for oncoming traffic as we approached the one way bridges while I tried to keep the car on the road. Compounding these issues is the fact that I like to get where I'm going so slowing down is not at the top of my list. Suffice to saywe made it.
Today was our day of choice to do what we wanted. Emma chose cycling so rented a bike and headed off to explore Kihei. Naturally, I went birding.
Kealia Pond National Wildlife Refuge
Long-billed Dowitchers
The heads of the Dowitchers pop up and down like high-speed sewing machines as they probe the mud for food.
26) Long-billed Dowitcher
Black-necked Stilt
Black-crowned Nightheron
White-faced Ibis
Hawaiian Coot
Wandering Tatler
Cattle Egret
27) Chestnut Munia
This little fellow was leaning sideways off one grass stem then swinging over to another to munch on the seeds.
Gray Frankolin
28) Moa or Red Junglefowl
Rosy-faced Lovebird
After the Kealia Ponds I circled back to Kihei and explored around the Maui Nui Golf Club. A flock of lively lovebirds was merrily foraging in the grass. These birds were clearly a feral population of escaped lovebirds. They are living free on Maui but not yet in sufficient numbers to be counted as wild birds by the American Birding Association (ABA). Too bad. I saw them but can't officially count them.
Rosy-faced Lovebird - Turquoise Mutation
Java Sparrow
The introduced Java Sparrow is feral on Maui in large numbers. It can be counted as a wild bird by the ABA.
Emma and I met up at sunset on our hotel balcony. We were both mellow and happy as we kicked back and recounted our day. Birding did it for me and cycling exhaustion worked for Emma.
February 5
Our final day and we were up before dawn. Our 8:30 a.m. organized birding walk left from Hosmer Grove so we had to go back up to the top the Haleakala Volcano.
View of central and west Maui from the sloped of the Haleakala Volcano.
We arrived on time for our guided bird tour only to find that the event was canceled due to high winds. Sigh, this was our one big chance to see the rare endangered Hawaiian Honeycreepers.
About 5 million years ago a flock of rosefinches were blown off course and landed in Hawaii. Over the millennia the descendants of this initial flock evolved and radiated into the unique species of Hawaiian Honeycreepers we have today.
With our guided walk into Waikomoi Preserve canceled we had to content ourselves with walking around the short birding trail at Hosmer Grove. Even this alternative was in danger of being canceled due to the high winds. Before the rangers could close the road completely we hustled down the Hosmer Grove bird trail.
Maui Amakihi
The conditions were far from ideal as the gale force winds had the forest trees swaying like a prairie wheat field in a tornado. However, with perserverance and luck a few honeycreepers flashed by. We saw a few reclusive Amakihi and several I'iwi foraging in the forest. Along with the Apapane we saw the other day, we observed three of the five Honeycreepers we were looking for.
I'iwi
After a few hours of birding, the park rangers caught up with us and kicked us out of Hosmer Grove. They had to closed this entire section of the park due to the gale force winds and the danger of falling trees.
Emma at the Kula Botanical Gardens
We retraced our route back down the mountain then circled around it at the 3000 foot level. Grama's Coffee House was a memorable refueling stop. We particularly enjoyed the cats that were panhandling around the restaurant patio. These cats were pros and really knew how to work it for a free hand out. Refreshed, we found ourselves at the nearby Kula Botanical Gardens.
Bird of Paradise
The array of beautiful exotic flowers was quite overwhelming. They were from all over the world and identifying them was not in the cards so we just enjoyed the ambience and beauty.
Red-crested Cardinal
Spotted Dove
We spent several hours just wandering around and enjoying the serenity of this exotic arboretum.
Our week in Maui was ending so we headed for the airport to catch the red eye flight back to Vancouver.
There was one final adrenaline charged moment when I managed to lose Emma between the car rental return and the plane boarding counter.We spent a hectic 45 minutes hopping on and off shuttle buses circling between the car rental depot and the airport. Eventually, we connected with just enough time to scurry onto our plane. Jolly good fun in hindsight.
We loved visiting Maui and look forward to returning to visit the Big Island where we can see the other Hawaiian National Park.
