We headed out of Ottawa and down the Trans-Canada Highway toward North Bay. As we drove we left the fields and forests of Central Canada behind and entered the spruce forests and rocky outcrops of the Canadian Shield. At 10:00 p.m., we arrived in North Bay for the night.
July 21
It was a cloudy warm day as we continued westward to Sudbury. This city is reknowned for its huge nickel mining operation and the smoke stack from the big smelter was still belching away. At one time, all the lakes for 100 kilometres around Sudbury were completely sterile because of the acid rain and heavy metal pollution from the smelter. Implementation of better technology has significantly improved local water quality but it will still take many decades to recover fully.
Nickel Smelter in Sudbury
To celebrate the town's primary industry, the City erected the largest nickel statue in the world. It was primarily the persistence of local fireman,Ted Szilva that enabled this remarkable statue to be completed. Emma and I wanted a photograph of this unique art work for our "Biggest and Best" collection.
Finding the big nickel statue proved to be more challenging than we expected but after a few attempts we arrived under the shadow of the imposing nickel.
Emma, Sonaa and I had a good time stretching our legs and seeing the nickel from all angles.
Amateur numismatist Jim was in his element
With many miles to cover, we headed deep into the Canadian Shield and by sunset we arrived at Wawa for the night.
Lake Superior
July 22
We drove steadily toward Pukaskwa National Park then sailed right past it as the signage was terrible. We ended up in the tiny town of Marathon then back tracked 25 kms to the park entrance.
Pukaskwa Visitor Centre
Compared to American National Parks, the Canadian Parks are quaint and rustic. The Pukaskwa cottage size visitor centre was a good example. There was a greater emphasis on wild life preservation and less of an emphasis on visitor comfort and amenities.
We think this was a good thing.
Woodland Caribou
By the entrance were statues of a woodland caribou and a wolf. For millennia, these species maintained their prey predator symbiotic relationship. The population of one species kept the other in check. Recently, moose have moved into the area along man made railways and roads. Now when caribou populations drop the wolf population maintains itself on moose. With no decline in the wolf population, the caribou are being extirpated from the area.
Timber Wolf
Hattie Cove located behind the Visitor Centre
Common Mergansers
A female Common Merganser and her nine ducklings were swimming in formation across the inlet. Two were riding on mom's back and seven were swimming close behind. It looked cute but was also a safety measure to minimize the danger of under water attack from Northern Pike.
Hattie Cove
It was time to hike so we started on the short South Headlands Trail which led through a a young spruce forest and onto the rocky headlands of Lake Superior.
Hattie Cove
The Canadian Shield around Lake Superior had a majestic rocky beauty.
On the summit of the rocky headland were two red Parks Canada chairs.
We took this opportunity to sit back and enjoy the view.
Lake Superior
Sonaa had a good time scrambling along the rocks. She really wanted to swim here. However, she was smart enough to realize that jumping in was the easy part but there was no easy way to climb back because of the slippery cliff face.
Sonaa joined Emma at the top of the outcrop so they could watch me scrambling around the base of the rock.
We continued around the rocky headland and back down to a nice sandy beach.
Emma stopped for a rest and a reflective moment on the beach.
Sonaa went for her daily swim.
At the west end of the beach was the trail head for the Manito Mukana Trail. We decided to continue our hike along this trail.
The Manito Mukana Trail wound through a spruce forest and followed the lake shore out to another rocky headland.
Emma started down the Manito Mukana Trail
Lake Superior
It was a beautiful day, sunny and warm but not too hot. The cold deep waters of Lake Superior have a cooling effect in summer and prevent the temperature around the lake from getting too hot. We felt comfortable hiking in long sleeved, shirts and pants.
Lake Superior
Manito Mukana Trail
Bunch Berry
142) Spruce Grouse - female
Beside the trail a female Spruce Grouse was keeping an eye on her recently fledged offspring.
Spruce Grouse - fledgling
Lake Superior and Spruce Trees
Walking along the shores of Lake Superior you could really appreciate how the Group of Seven artists were inspired by the scenery of the Canadian Shield.
Emma on the Manito Mukana Trail
After following the shoreline, the Manito Mukana Trail led back through the spruce forest toward Hattties Cove.
Tiger Lily
Hattie's Cove
June 23I would have been nice to stay a few days at this peaceful and beautiful location but we had commitments in Winnipeg so had to carry on. As we left the park we saw two 143) Ruffed Grouse scurry into the forest.
The further we drove from Lake Superior the warmer it got. You don't fully appreciate the moderating effect of the big lake until you drive into the heat wave it was suppressing.
Just inside Manitoba, we stopped at West Hawk Lake for a short hike up to the overlook. West Hawk Lake was formed by a meteor impact and, at 115 meters in depth, it is the deepest lake in Manitoba..
This was my old stomping grounds. In 1970, my summer job was as a lifeguard at West Hawk Lake. It was awesome being a swoon hewn dune boon. The good old days were great.
At the beginning of our guarding shift, we would drop our beverage of choice by the outer swimming buoys. After work we would skin dive down the 40 feet to retrieve our drinks. At that depth, the drinks were well below the thermocline. They were nicely chilled if you were brave enough to swim down through the thermocline to get them.
The beach at West Hawk Lake
You could walk from the North Pole to this viewpoint and never cross a road. The land along the Manitoba and Ontario border was one of the wildest places on earth.
Emma and Sonaa enjoying the view
We sat on the summit and enjoyed the panoramic view of West Hawk Lake and the Canadian Shield.
