Wednesday 1 July 2015

Shenandoah National Park - June 29 to 30

June 29
Thanks, to the clown who started his RV generator at 5:00 a.m. we got an early start. We headed up Interstate 64 then traveled along the Blue Ridge Parkway to the south entrance of Shenandoah National Park.


 McCormick Gap Overlook - 6:00 a.m.

The Blue Ridge Parkway is a unique road as it runs right along the top of the Blue Ridge Mountains. As you travel this narrow windy mountaintop road you get amazing overlooks of the valley below. It's really cool to look east into the valley below then drive for two minutes to the other side of the mountaintop and look into the valley on the west side of the mountain.

Blue Ridge Parkway built in the 1930s
 
We have always been a big fan of FDR and his New Deal policies which created the Civilian Conservation Corps of the 1930s. The Blue Ridge Parkway is just one  example of the lasting benefits created by this far sighted leader. The Corps did a great job at Shenandoah National Park and the roadside stone walls are still in excellent shape.


We had a wonderful morning slowly cruising from one gorgeous overlook to the next. At each spot, we took a few moments to wander around the overlook and admire the valley below.

Sawmill Run Overlook

Crimona Lake Overlook

Moorman's River Overlook

Our progress was slow along this splendid mountain road as we found reasons to sit back in our RV dining room to enjoy the view. Our many breaks included: breakfast, first coffee, second breakfast, second coffee, brunch .... You get the picture.

Eastern Towhee

Trayfoot Mountain Overlook

Dundo Overlook

At Loft Mountain, we went for a hike and followed the legendary Appalachian Trail for a few miles. It was shady and warm in the forest as we explored a small portion of this 3,500 km trail.

Appalachian Trail Near Loft Mountain

At intervals along the walk we saw forest birds as they foraged in the canopy.


American Redstart

House Wren

Catbird


Appalachian Trail

Back on the Blue ridge Parkway again we continued along from one overlook to the next.

Doyle River Overlook

Rocky Top Overlook

Two Mile Run Overlook

Loft Mountain Overlook

Eaton Hollow Overlook

Emma and I are a finely tuned  balance between "go and stay" "fast and slow" "work and leisure" "be here and get there". I was very much in the moment as we meandered our way along the  Parkway.

Emma is more of a get there kind of gal and, after our twentieth overview stop, expressed here views with her usual economy of words. I was accelerated out of my reverie and put the pedal to the metal. I took the turns on the winding parkway at a good pace, skipped several overlooks and arrived at Big Meadows campground in the early afternoon.


Harry F Byrd Visitor Center

Before booking into our Big Meadows campground we stopped at the Visitor Center. Emma was drawn to the statue honouring the Civilian Conservation Corps. Her heroes are not the usual fare of sports celebrities and charismatic speakers. Her heroes are the unsung people who give back to society like the workers in the Corps.

Emma with a Statue honouring the Corps

We booked into the Big Meadows Campground then went for another hike. For this second promenade, we chose a section of the Appalachian Trail that went from the campground to Milam Gap. As we were already at the top of the mountains this ridge line trail was pleasantly flat.

Second hike along another section of the Appalachian Trail.


I must admit that I strolled along at a leisurely gait that had Sonaa and Emma encouraging me to pick up the pace.

Emma and Sonaa on the Appalachian Trail

June 30
We had an enjoyable night and morning in the spacious campsite at Big Meadows. By mid morning, we were hiking the Upper Hawksbill Trail. Dogs are allowed on this trail and Sonaa made the most of it. The three of us climbed the gently sloping and pleasantly forested trail to the summit of Hawksbill Mountain. At 4,050 feet, this is the highest point in Shenandoah National Park.

 Upper Hawksbill Trail

Wild Red Columbine

Great Spangled Fritillary


Approaching Hawksbill Summit

Dark-eyed Junco

The view from Hawksbill Summit was beautiful and would be spectacular on a smog free day. We hung out at the summit for awhile to enjoy the peace and tranquility of this serene place.

Hawksbill Summit


Emma taking in the vista at Hawksbill Summit


Emma and Sonaa on Hawksbill Summit out

Back on the Parkway we continued north with the occasional overlook stop. The view down the valleys was somewhat more obscured today as the distant ridges were partially shrouded in smog. The sun did not feel as warm and the air as clear as it does out west. The massive input of smog from the east coast cities is clearly having a very negative effect on sunlight and visibility. The change has no doubt been gradual over the decades so the locals probably don't remember what a sunny, clear day really looks like.

Thorofare Mountain Overlook

For our second hike of the day, we chose to hike the Stony Man Trail. It was another pleasant shady hike along a well traveled trail through a lush green forest.

Stony Man Trail


Near the trail summit we encountered a mixed flock of forest warblers.  Only the 110) Black and White Warbler stayed still long enough for a picture. The 111) Canada Warblers and Redstarts were too active and elusive for a photo.

Black and White Warbler

The viewpoint from the summit of Stony Man Trail would be excellent on a clear day. This day was better than most but the beauty of the vista was limited by the haze created by the east coast smog.

Stony Man Summit

Emma on Stony Man Summit

Emma gets a leg up on Stony Man Trail

As we quietly descended the trail a browsing deer popped its head up to watch our progress.

White-tailed Deer beside the Stony Man Trail


Dickey Ridge Visitor Center

In the late afternoon, we arrived at the north end of Shenandoah National Park and stopped at the visitor center for a break and late afternoon snack. The rock plaza behind the visitor center looked striking in its simplicity.

Skyline Drive - North Section

Shenandoah National Park is beautiful and we would have liked to say longer. However, we had a lot of ground to cover to make it back to Winnipeg for my nephews wedding in late July. Our route up I66 took us to I88 and we found ourselves in a Walmart at Bedford Pennsylvania by nightfall.

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