Sunday 19 July 2015

Gaspe and Forillon National Park - July 16 to 18


July 16
From Kouchibouguac New Brunswick, we drove northwest to Metapedia in Quebec then turned east along the shoreline of the Gaspe peninsula. At sunset, we arrived at a campground in Baie des Chaleurs.


Surprise!  While checking in I left the RV running on a slope behind me. Suddenly, the receptionist looked past me with eyes as big as saucers.

I spun round to see our RV barreling down toward me.  With surprising agility, Emma leapt out of the passenger seat, sailed over the dog, landed in the driver's seat and slammed on the brakes. The RV came to a screeching halt a foot from the building's picture window.


To unwind, we walked along the Gaspe shore as the sun set. It was a beautiful tranquil setting marred only by Emma's staccato observations on my RV parking prowess.


July 17
It was sunny and warm as we continued toward Forillon National Park which was located at the eastern tip of the Gaspe peninsula. The road was slow and windy but the scenery beautiful.

At Perce, we stopped for lunch and an opportunity to enjoy iconic Perce Rock. Silhouetted against the dark blue water and light blue sky, it really was gorgeous.


Perce Rock caught us by surprise at it suddenly popped up just off shore.


Perce Rock


Emma at Perce Rock





Perce Rock from the other side

Continuing east we drove past Perce Rock then took one last photograph looking toward the west.

We were reaching the tip of the Gaspe peninsula and could see the  cliffs of Forillon National Park in the distance.

Pointe-Saint-Pierre in the foreground and Forillon National Park in the background


Monument to the builders of Gaspe

We drove into the village of Gaspe and stopped at the Musee de la Gaspe. It was a nice city museum and a good opportunity to stretch our legs.

Monument to Jacques Cartier

The monument to Jacques Cartier was particularly interesting as the sculpted tablets highlighted aspects of his adventures in the new world.


Monument detail

In the early afternoon, we arrived at Forillon National Park. For $25, we booked our dry campsite then headed out for a hike.

 Fishing Boat in Gaspe Bay

We decided to do the Les Graves trail from Anse-Aux Amerindiens Beach to Lands End at Shiphead.

Anse-Aux Amerindiens Beach

Emma started out at her usual brisk pace with Sonaa and I sauntering along behind. It was an eight km hike so Sonaa and I paced ourselves while enjoying the view.






Gazing out on Gaspe Bay you could see Minke Whales just off shore.

Minke Whale

It was a long hike for us and I was thankful it was a nice day and the trail was reasonably flat.

 Les Graves Trail


At last, we arrived at the lighthouse at Cape Gaspe Station


Lighthouse at Cape Gaspe

The lighthouse was on top of a high cliff. It looked like a gently sloping meadow until you got to the edge.


At the edge of the cliff, you realized just how far above the water you really were.


Shiphead Cliffs

Emma had started the hike hard and was now played out. She and Sonaa rested at the top of the cliff as I proceeded over the cliff edge and down a steep winding trail.

Northern Gannets flying in formation 


At the end of the steep trail was a very long set of stairs which enabled you to climb half way down the cliff face.



Looking along the cliff face you can see Rasorbills and Cormorants nesting on the sheer granite wall.




Great Black-backed Gull

It was a special experience to see birds soaring feet away while others were clinging to the cliff face or skimming just over the water.

Double-crested Cormorant

I would have happily photographed for an hour or two but I was on the clock. I crawled back up the steep trail to find Emma reasonably refreshed and ready to complete the return hike.


We hiked back to our campsite, had supper and crashed.

July 18
Going to bed so early the night before meant we were up and rolling at 5:30 a.m. By 7:00 a.m., we were at Petit Gaspe Beach and starting our hike up the Mount Saint Alban trail.


Mount Saint Albans Trail

As we were the first ones up the trail Emma was anxious and insisted I bring bear spray. Never one to pick unnecessary battles I went along with her requests and even brought my buck knife in case any bear action became hand to hand. Satisfied for her safety, Emma led the way up the steep mountain trail.




Anemone


 Emma on Mount Saint Albans

On top of Mount Saint Albans, we got a glorious view of the Forillon coast and the Gulf of the Saint Lawrence.


View North to Caps des Rosiers


 View South to the Shiphead Cliffs


Gulf of Saint Lawrence

We scampered back down and were in the RV by 10:00 a.m. We stopped for second coffee at Forillon Interpretive Centre at Le Harve.



The short interpretive trail provided another perspective of the Forillon Coastline and the Shiphead Cliffs.

 The tip of the Gaspe Peninsula at Shiphead



Looking north along the coastline we could see the Caps des Rosiers lighthouse.

 Caps des Rosiers Lighthouse

For the rest of the day, we drove along the north shore of the Gaspe peninsula. We passed many small quaint fishing villages along the coast.



 Each one had a public dock and a church much like this one at Grande-Valee

 Saint Francis Xavier Church at Grande-Valee

By nightfall, we were at a Walmart near Quebec City.








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