Wednesday 28 August 2013

Rocky Mountain to Great Sand Dunes - August 24 -27

August 24
Rocky Mountain National Park is geographically close to Denver but, with the serpentine road quality, it takes a long time to get there. It took us an hour to finally hook up with Interstate 25. The traffic was heavy and, like all North American drivers, the Denver crowd tailgates way too much. However, they merge and exit smoothly so we powered through Denver with minimal difficulty.

Well, Emma did "red line" a couple of times but that is par for the course whenever we go through a big city. As usual I pointed out the highlights as we passed them. Mile High Stadium looked particularly impressive as we sailed by but Emma was not in the mood to converse about the merits of sports architecture.

The drive south from Denver was most enjoyable. The terrain was  rolling prairie to the east with the Rocky Mountains standing high and stately to the west.

We decided to visit Great Sand Dunes National Park as it was relatively close on our way to Dallas. At Walsenburg, we turned west on Highway 160 and the road rose steadily into the Sangre de Christo Mountains.


We drove for most of the day and arrived at Great Sand Dunes National Park in the early evening.
This park has a special and magnificent ecosystem with prairie to the south and giant sand dunes at the base of the Sangre de Christo Mountains



Prairie South of the Sand Dunes


We were in luck and got the last site at the Pinyon Flats Campground. Good thing or we would have had to back out of the park for miles.

We quickly geared up and went for an evening hike onto the wind-swept sand dunes.

 Sand dunes in the foreground with the Sangre de Christo Mountains rising in the background

Wind Ripples on Sand Dunes

Sand Dunes

At the bottom of some gullies, there were hearty plants trying to survive within the shifting sands of the dunes.

Sand Dunes and Sangre de Christo Mountains

Dusk over the Sand Dunes

As the sun was setting, we played and scrambled up several sand dunes. It was good fun and hard work striding through the sliding sand. After dark, we wandered under the stars back to our campsite. 

 August 25
It was a beautiful morning as we arose to explore this unique ecosystem.

The mountain streams carry sandy sediment down the slopes of the Sangre de Christo Mountains and deposit it in the prairie below. Prevailing winds from the west blow the sand back toward the mountains but winds from the east pile up the sand as it approaches the mountains.Streams from the mountains carry the sand back to the prairie and the cycle repeats. Way cool.


To get a nice perspective on this ecosystem, we took the Dune Overlook Trail. From the campground, we hiked up the gently rising foothills of the Sangre de Christo Mountains




The open trail wound through sage meadows and around short juniper bushes and pinyon pine trees.






Many flowers were in bloom and we were particularly impressed by the flowering cacti.

Hoary Aster


Prickly Pear Cactus


Prickly Pear Cactus in Bloom

Bee Pollinating a Prickly Pear Cactus



We ate lunch while overlooking the giant sand dunes.






On completing our hike, we packed up and drove down to the nearby visitor centre. The nature trail beside the visitor centre provided excellent views of the sand dunes and mountains.





It was inspiring to watch the visual interplay among the sand dunes, mountains and clouds.




The sand dunes kept changing colour like a moving patchwork quilt. The sand dunes seemed to shift as the sun's rays filtered through the clouds.


From a distance, the sand dunes don't look that big but as you get closer they tower hundreds of feet above your head.













The expanse of the sand dunes also surprises you and really registers when you try to walk through them.



 
We would have liked to spend another day or two at this national park but time was pressing. We needed to get back to Dallas and fly home to Vancouver.


 One final look at this unique landscape before we headed south.



The rolling prairie continued along the I25 all the way to the New Mexico border. From there we encountered a minor mountain range then turned east on Highway 56 at Springer.

The terrain opened onto rolling green prairie that steadily became flatter. Time flew by on this open empty highway, in large part, because Emma was reading aloud a great book called "Merle's Door". The tranquil story about the life of a man and his dog combined with Emma's enthusiastic reading voice made for a wonderful driving experience. Unfortunately, toward the end of the book the dog died and Emma was too overcome by emotions to continue reading the story. She shifted to another book where an autistic child was trying to solve the murder of his neighbor's dog.

At dusk, we saw two 63) Swainson's Hawks, before arriving, after dark, at an RV campground in Dalhart Texas.

August 26
It was a typical hot Texas day as we drove through northwest Texas. Emma was getting into visiting national parks and monuments. She encouraged me to side-track to the nearby Alibates Flint Quarries National Monument. It was of historical significance to the Native American tribes as it was an ancient location to mine flint.


It took us several tries to find the Monument as it was not well marked. When we got there the staff was surprised to see us as they don't get many visitors. Suffice to say some National Monuments are more impressive and welcoming than others.

We drove all day and stayed the night at Quanah. This town is named after the last great warrior chief of the Comanche Nation.

August 27/28
After another long travel day we arrived at the Denton Camping World and bought a cover for the RV. By late afternoon, we had the RV parked in storage with the new cover protecting it from the sun.

We  saw three"lifer" birds on this trip while visiting eight national parks and four national monuments.

Saturday 24 August 2013

Cedar Breaks to Rocky Mountain National Park - August 20 to 23

August 20
After visiting Bryce Canyon, we decided to go to Cedar Breaks National Monument. Our initial plan was to go to Zion National Park next but the RV air conditioner is not working and we would have to descend a few thousand feet to get to Zion. Instead, we decided to climb from 8,000 feet to 10,000 feet and go to Cedar Breaks.

Last view of the Bryce Canyon area

 On exiting Bryce we immediately traveled through the aptly named Red Canyon.

We completed our drive along Highway 12 and started ascending to 10,000 as we followed Highway 143. On the map, the distance from Bryce to Cedar Breaks is not far. However, on this windy mountain road it took us several hours to get to out destination.


This Red-tailed Hawk greeted us as we entered the Cedar Breaks National Monument

A short walk from the road provided a great panoramic view of the half mile deep Cedar Breaks amphitheatre.

Chessman Ridge Overlook


At the quaint Visitor Centre, we got directions to the nearby campground.

Visitor Centre - Cedar Breaks National Monument

Immediately outside the Visitor Centre was a spectacular view of the Cedar Breaks Amphitheatre.



View of the Amphitheatre from the Visitor Centre


After scoping out the campground, we capped off  the day by doubling back to the Alpine Pond Trail and completing the 2 mile hike through the upper meadows of the park. 





Alpine Meadow - Cedar Breaks National Monument
 
August 21
We spend a quiet night in the mostly empty campground. In the morning,  I woke up with a splitting headache. That is quite unusual for me and I think it had something to do with altitude. I had never slept above 10,000 feet before.

Birds were all around the RV when we opened the curtains: White-crowned Sparrow, Mountain Chickadees, Chipping Sparrows and Yellow-rumped Warblers were present foraging in large numbers. 

Northern Flicker

White-crowned Sparrow - Immature


We had one final look from a Cedar Breaks viewpoint before leaving the park.








Cedar Breaks is at the extreme western edge of the Colorado Plateau and is also one of its highest sections. We descended rapidly to Cedar City and the plains below the monument. After dropping several thousand feet I started to feel much better and my headache disappeared.

We had reached the western limits for our current trip and started to head back toward Dallas via Rocky Mountain National Park. We drove all day along Interstate 15 and 70. The day was hot and the terrain bone dry and rocky.

 San Rafael Reef

The San Rafael Reef is a 30 mile long jagged mountain ridge that was not penetrated until 1967 when the I-70 forged a route through Wolfe Canyon.

Wolfe Canyon

By nightfall we made it back to Grand Junction, Colorado. We didn't get much exercise this day but enjoyed the mental and physical recovery time after what we had done and seen in the past few days. 

August 22
The day started out hot as we drove through open prairie. As the elevation climbed we followed the Colorado River into the Rocky Mountains.

We stopped briefly at the town of Parachute and read about the 1904 train robbery and death of Harry Logan (Kid Curry). I had been reading about Butch Cassidy and his Wild Bunch as we traveled through Utah and Colorado. Kid Curry was the last of Bunch and his demise marked the end of the lawless times in the wild west. The country was not as wild and open as it once was as trains, roads, telegraph lines and political organization ended the days of hit and run train robberies.

As we climbing into the Rockies, the day became misty and rainy. We drove through the town of Vail, crested Vail Pass at 10,603 feet and sailed past Copper Mountain. At Silverthorne, we headed up Highway 9 to Windy Gap.

Colorado River near Windy Gap

Windy Gap is a water diversion and reservoir project which includes an nice wildlife refuge area. We enjoyed a pleasant hour watching and photographing some of the more cooperative subjects.

Brewer's Sparrow

Yellow Warbler

Cedar Waxwing

Leaving Windy Gap we drove around Lake Grandby, Shadow Mountain Lake and Grand Lake. After days of hot, dry, rocky terrain it was a pleasant change to be in lush green water filled valleys. As dusk approached, we headed into the west entrance to Rocky Mountain National Park.



 




Just inside the park we encountered a herd of elk that were trying to cross the road. A few elk had already crossed the road when the rest of the herd spooked and stampeded back into the forest.

Elk




At dusk, we stopped at the Timber Creek Campground.

August 23
It was a beautiful morning as we followed the headwaters of the Colorado River up into the Rocky Mountains.




Moose

  
The Trail Ridge Road started to earn its name as the windy road got progressively steeper as we ascended from the Timber Line Campground at 8,500 to the Alpine Visitor Centre at 11,790 feet.

The Views Were Magnificent




Alpine Visitor Centre

Golden-mantled Ground Squirrel

A friendly ground squirrel was panhandling as people approached the Visitor Centre.




From the Alpine Visitor Centre, we decided to hike along the Ute Trail.





We didn't get far before a Yellow-bellied Marmon decided to check us out and see if Emma had any snacks.



Yellow-bellied Marmon






The Ute trail is relatively level as you start at an altitude  11,790 feet and walk along the side of the mountain.


 Even though the trail was relatively level we sauntered along so as not to get exhausted at this altitude. Well, I sauntered. As usual Emma started out at her usual brisk trot.






In short order, Emma was powering her way through the beautiful alpine meadows.


I continued to document the experience and waited for the altitude to slow down my energetic honey.



You feel on top of the world as you wander through sunlight alpine meadows.



Forest Canyon

We followed Ute Trail until we got a scenic view down Forest Canyon. This was a perfect spot to eat lunch and enjoy the view.




We retraced our steps back up the Ute Trail and continued driving along the Trail Ridge Road.

At 12,183 we reached the highpoint of our ascent and the road leveled off as we arrived at the Tundra Communities Trail head.


The trail is only 1.1 miles round trip but it takes your breath away quickly as you are hiking at over 12,000 feet. At this altitude, you are getting 35% less oxygen than at sea level so we took several breaks to enjoy this novel ecosystem.

 Emma Beside Mushroom Rock

There were several Yellow-bellied Marmots scurrying about the rocks and boulders. With only 40 frost free days up here they need to forage while the food is available.












Marmot in the Tundra





A Red-tailed Hawk cruised low over the tundra and the marmots disappeared for a while.







 
Elevation 12,319 feet

Emma and Jim beside the Toll Memorial at the end of the Tundra Communities Trail.






  We retraced our steps back along this beautiful alpine walk.



It was time to saddle up and start our descent from this high, austre, beautiful place into the eastern valley below.




The Rim Trail Road down the east side of the mountain was every bit as windy and precipitous as the west side. No guard rails and the thousand foot drops made for an exciting descent. A couple of times it felt like we were going to drive off the road and into mid-air. It was either negotiate the hair pin turns or fly off into space.  Definitely, one of the most breathtaking roads were have ever been on.



Long's Peak - 14,259 ft.

When we made it to the valley below we took a breather to relax, recover and admire the surrounding mountains.

 We hustled onward to the Moraine Park Campground but when we got there it was full. Worse yet, there was a major cycling race the next day and getting in or out of this national park would be problematic. We had little choice but to leave the park to find a campground.

The town of Estes Park is immediately adjacent to the east entrance of Rocky Mountain National Park. The town reminded me of Banff except it is smaller and compressed into a tight valley.

We followed Highway 34 toward Loveland. This road follows the Thompson River down a very steep and narrow gorge. It was very scenic but I had had enough of tricky windy roads for one day.

At Loveland, we got the last camping spot available. Wow, what a day!