August 18
From Capitol Reef National Park, we drove west on Highway 24 to Torrey then switched to scenic Highway 12 and started to gain altitude. We began the day at at 5,300 feet and steadily rose through forests of Pinyon Pine and Junipers until we entered Ponderosa Pine forests at 8,00 feet.
We descended from the pass and arrived at Anasazi State Park where we stopped to tour the museum
It took us most of the day to travel scenic Highway 12 and enjoy the vast landscape of the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument
In the late afternoon, we passed through Tropic and headed to Bryce Canyon National Park.
An adult and immature Golden Eagle greeted us as we approached the entrance to this magical park. I've seen thousands of immature Bald Eagles but this was the first time I got a good look at the prominent white tail feathers of an immature Golden Eagle.
Golden Eagle - Immature
For our afternoon hike, we stopped at the Mossy Caves trail. This short hike was a great introduction to the unworldly oranges and jagged hoodoos of Bryce Canyon National Park.
Mossy Cave Trail
The scenery on either side of Water Canyon was amazing. A beautiful little waterfall marked the end of this enchanted trail
Hoodoos Rising Above Water Canyon
We decided to ascend the very steep trail that terminated at a set of hoodoos and windows.
The view from the top was special as was the view through the windows.
However, we had forgotten that it is often easier to climb up a trail than to go down it. We gingerly retraced out steps back down.
On looking back at the trail, we had a much better respect for the steepness of the grade.
We returned to our RV and continued on to Ruby's Inn and RV Campground. Within a tranquil setting of Ponderosa Pines, we settled done to one of Emma's great meals. "Turf and Surf" was one of our favourite meals where we would chow down veggy food and surf the web.
Emma relaxing after a fun day of hiking and exploring.
Western Chipmunk tentatively checking out the new arrivals at the campground.
August 19
By mid morning, we had entered Bryce Canyon National Park and found a spacious campsite in another Ponderosa Pine forest.
The altitude was over 7,900 feet and there were lots of mountain bird species foraging around the campground including: 41) Mountain Chickadees, 43) Pygmy Nuthatches, 45) Hairy Woodpeckers, White-breasted Nuthatches, and 46) Townsend's Solitaires.
Mountain Chickadee
Red-shafted Flicker
After lunch, we went on a long and strenuous hike along the Rim Trail. Our excursion took us from the campground past Sunset Point and over to Inspiration Point. The views were magnificent and unworldly like nothing else we had ever seen.
While walking along the rim trail we encountered an interesting trail marker. Apparently, these trail markers are sprinkled about at the end of hiking trails. Take your picture beside three of them, show the pictures to the park rangers and you get a prize.
The orange panoramas of Bryce Canyon were like nothing we had ever imagined.
Sunrise Point
Sunset Point
The walk along the Rim Trail was spectacular with unimaginable view points. When we arrived at Sunset Point we sat and admired the view then started to retrace our route back to the campsite.
What a great hike. We were having a blast but needed to go back to the RV for a rest. We weren't physically tired but mentally we were overwhelmed by the unworldly grandeur of Bryce Canyon.
When we arrived at our campsite for lunch we were greeted by the resident ground squirrel.
Golden-mantled Ground Squirrel
In the late afternoon, we went to the nearby visitor centre then drove 27 kilometres to Rainbow Point.
Natural Bridge Viewpoint
As we wound our way back to our campsite the sun came out just as dusk was arriving. The conditions were perfect for seeing wildlife. Deer and antelope started to emerge from the forests to browse on meadow grass.
This young female antelope was particularly bold as she strolled out into the middle of a meadow. The other females and male waited at the forest edge for it to get darker.
Reluctantly, the male antelope emerged from the bushes to chastise the eager female. His assertive body language made it clear that she was to return to the forest and wait for it to get darker. She got the message and strolled back into the forest.
A lone Townsend's Solitaire greeted us as we arrived back at our campsite.
Townsend's Solitaire
August 20
At 6:45 we packed up and headed out in the predawn light to drive to Bryce Point.
It took us longer than expected to get there and the sun was up but obscured by clouds when we arrived.
Bryce Point
Bryce Point
Fortunately, the sun started to peak through breaks in the clouds and washed the hoodoos in a glowing orange light.
Dawn at Bryce Point
Early morning overlooking Bryce Canyon at Bryce Point
Emma at Bryce Point in Bryce Canyon
At 9:00 a.m. we drove back to Sunset Point,. It was still early enough so we were able to get a parking spot for our RV. We suited up for a long hike.
A long hike means that Jim carries a knapsack full of food, a couple of litres of water, 2 cameras and a telephoto lens plus a hunting knife and bear spray. Despite the hordes of people Emma likes me "loaded for bear" in case we get jumped by a mountain lion.
I've told her that you don't need defensive weapons even in prime bear country. All you need is to be faster than the person you are with. Hmm ... maybe that's why she loads me down with so much gear.
As I assembled the required items, Emma's role was to encourage me to pick up the pace.
At Sunset Point, we headed down into Bryce Canyon following the Navajo Trail
Thor's Hammer from the Navajo Trail
We descended rapidly into Bryce Canyon. Soon we were deep in the canyon and staring up at the magnificent hoodoos that lined the trail.
Emma on the Navajo trail
We arrived at the end of the Navajo trail and wanted to get our pictures taken beside the medallion marker. Unfortunately, a large group of loud German tourists had surrounded the marker and they were jabbering enthusiastically.They were not going anywhere quickly but I saw a small opening where Emma and I could squeeze into the marker.
Emma was off in her own world communing with nature and did not hear my quiet attempts to get her attention. Throwing caution to the wind as the opening was closing, I ensured that Emma would definitely hear my final imperative.
"EMMA, VIENS PAR ICI", I said in a deep voice that echoed around the canyon.
Emma leapt to attention sprinted over to the sign and we got our pictures taken.
Haa ... haa. Well not exactly.
Three things happened at once.
Emma was affronted and approached the sign with fire in her eyes.
The female German tourists understood French and were taken aback by my assertiveness.
The male German tourists were impressed and one of them gave me a sly thumbs up.
We did get our pictures taken but Emma was at her feminist best and harangued me for a kilometer about my shortcoming. Included in a very extensive list were phrases like "Bull in a China Shop" and terminally insensitive. When she is on a roll my eloquent honey has quite the vocabulary.
Fortunately, Bryce Canyon is a magical place and Emma slowly shifted from boil to simmer, to lukewarm and finally happy. By the time we got to the end of the Queen Victoria trail we were back in sync.
Jim at the end of the Queen Victoria trail
The climb back out of Bryce Canyon was much more strenuous than going down but equally as much fun.
In a few places, the trail got narrow as we slipped between and through the towering hoodoos.
We climbed back out of the canyon by the Queen Victoria trail.
Emma resting as we approached the rim of the canyon.
Finally, we made it to the top and could look back down.
Bryce Canyon in all of its overwhelming beauty.
We headed over to the Visitor Centre, showed the park ranger pictures of ourselves by the trail markers and got our prizes. We did one final birding sweep through the campground and photographed a cooperative Western Bluebird.
Western Bluebird
By late afternoon, we were headed out of Bryce Canyon and on route to Cedar Breaks National Monument.
Gorgeous
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